Error Code 6 (Hall Sensor)
As the the error code guide this is a "motor Hoare coil malfunction" We can only suppose that this means "Motor hall sensor malfunction".
Now hall sensors are 3 tiny "Hall effect" sensors positioned in the motor and basically their purpose is to tell the controller were the rotor (rotor magnetic fields changes the status of these sensor).
So you have 3 phases and each has their hall sensors, Each sensor has 3 pins, one 4.5V supply, one ground (black wire) and the output signal (green yellow and blue). The red and black are common to all 3 sensors. So if you measure the voltage between the black and red (6 pin connector from the motor) you should be getting around 4.3-4.5Vdc. Now to be able to measure the signal of each you will have to be able to rotate the motor very slowly as you will want to see the signal going from 0V to 4.3V each time the magnet crosses each hall sensor.
Best way to do this is to remove the plastic cover of the main output shaft of the motor and put a 17mm socket wrench in it, so that way you will be able to turn the motor one notch at a time. But before you test anything make sure that the connector is good and that all the pins are making contact and no wire is pulled out.
You also need to unplug every sensor before your start this test, it's possible that a bad sensor could be influencing the hall sensor signal, so please make sure all your sensors are unplugged before testing (crash sensor, kickstand, brakes)
Now the next step will require you to flip the bike over and remove the bash guard to access the hall sensor connector. Make sure to turn the ignition OFF and leave the battery in. You don't need to remove the controller and motor like I did on the video... the motor was already out so I left it there so it would be easier to show you.
You will need a multimeter with good "pointy" tip and likely a second set of hands to turn the motor while you probe the voltage.
Now start by turning the ignition to ON and then measure the voltage from the RED and BLACK core, you can poke through the wire insulation if your meter tips are too fat to fit the back of the connector. Just make to to wrap them in electrical tape after. You should measure a constant 4.3-4.5Vdc, I will use 4.5V as a reference.
Next move your red probe to any of the 3 hall sensor signal wire (Bleu, yellow or green), you will either measure a 0V (or very low voltage) or a 4.5V, now it's time to rotate the motor until you get a change in the signal like this video. IF you don't get any voltage shift (like it stays at zero) make sure that your meter tip is touching the wire. If it stays at 4.5V then you likely have found the issue. Repeat with the 2 other colours make sure they all switch from 0 to 4.5V each 4-5 motor notches. If you have any signal that does not move up and down then one sensor is bad. IF you turn the throttle and let the motor run you will see a 2.5V average voltage coming from it (your meter is not fast enough to pickup the alternating voltage (0-4.5-0V...)
Now if you get a good signal coming off all 3 hall sensors and you still have the error 6 then it's likely the controller that is damaged and needs to be replaced.
PS: there is a 6th wire , the white one. It's the positive coefficient temperature sensor. meaning the resistance goes up as the motor heats up and goes down when it cools off! If this wire is shorted to ground then the controller will think the motor is cool, unplug it and the controller will think it overheated it will stop the motor and throw error 10 or 11. To bypass it you just need to short the wire wire to the black on the controller side
Support notes: Now this motor is weather proof but not submersible and crossing a deep river is not a good idea, so if water (especially salt water) finds it way through cable sheathing or sucked through an oring because of a rapid change in temperature (like a hot motor dipped in cool water) then it can ruin the hall sensors. This would not be covered under warranty.
So you can remove the hall sensor cover and add some gasket maker to seal the cover off and also add some on the metal cable gland were the hall sensor wires get in, as you can see there is a second pair of wires next to the multi wire cable (the temp sensor) and the will leave a gap for water to get in even if the cable gland is tight. For this I had to cut away the nylon braid and will seal it with liquid electrical tape near the cable gland but I will also have seal were the 5 hall sensor wires enter the grey sheath.