If the lights/display/horn works and they do not turn off or flicker then continue reading this section


Can be either:
1) Brake cutout sensors
2) Kick stand sensor
3) Throttle stuck
4) A connector is not fully "clicked in"
5) Tilt sensor (crash sensor)
6) A problematic light


1) Check the ebrakes. The brake levers are designed to cut power if pulled. In some circumstances such as a crash this connector could come unplugged and the connector may cause intermittent cutout until plugged back into the lever. If you see a cutout, check the ebrake connector! If it is loose of comes out if you pull on it, add a couple drops of superglue to hold it in place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disabling ebrakes for full throttle during braking

The goal of ebrakes is to cut power from the motor as a safety measure, however there are instances where this may want to be disabled such as during an actual race, track use, burnouts, or any situation where you need to already be hitting the throttle before you let go of the brake and require extreme agility. Please see the linked post for in-depth instructions on how to service the ebrake connection


2) Kick stand sensor, make sure that the kickstand is up and that the wire is not ripped out of the kickstand (near the pivot). In case of a doubt you can unplug the sensor but you will have to remove the bash guard and access the triangular 3 pin connector and unplug it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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3) Throttle stuck

Maybe the cable it too tight and the throttle is not returning to 0, you can adjust the throttle cable on the hand throttle adjuster, just slide the rubber boot, loosen the lock ring and turn the adjustment screw in.

Video explaining how the throttle works. Note: you dont have to remove the Bach guard you can just take a look through the holes in the bash guard to make sure that the cable sheath is in the bracket.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4) A connector is not fully "clicked in"

There are many connectors on that bike and some are critical, if a wire is pulled out a little or a connector is not fully pressed in then the motor can cut out while riding.

Now you will have to remove the bash guard to access these connector. Make sure that you do not pull on any connectors or wires!

Please take a look at this video
 

 

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5) Tilt sensor (crash sensor)

The crash sensor is located under the top part of the controller, if you have disabled the brake & kickstand sensors, adjusted the throttle and checked the connector and you still get cutouts (without ever loosing power to the dashboard and lights) then best would be to unplug this sensor and test the bike. So far we havent replaced a single crash sensor so it's very unlikely that it goes bad. If you take a huge jump and land hard, you can trip that sensor (happened to me) so keep that in mind that this sensor is not for extreme jumps!

To access this sensor you will have to pull the controller out, it's a little black box between the battery and then top part of the controller.

Please watch this video on how to change the controller, at the 3:00 min mark Matt is pointing at the crash sensor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsRqIB9VMQM&t=5s

6) Rear or front light is pulling the brake cut-out signal.

Disconnect both wires off the rear light and disconnect the front head light (front head light connector is located under the ignition housing).